How Taiwan became a serious rival to whisky stalwarts like Scotland and Ireland
Information technology'south a sleepy-seeming rainy early morning in Yilan County, the rural home of the Kavalan Distillery – ground zero for Taiwan'south growing reputation as a mecca for lovers of single malts. Only already the most famous attraction in this otherwise peaceful corner of northern Taiwan thrums with activeness.
In the citadel-like building where the whisky is fabricated, matured and tasted, a handful of the 700,000-plus visitors who visit the distillery every twelvemonth are sniffing malted barley and gazing in awe at giant copper stills imported from Scotland.
As tourists gawp from the hallways to a higher place, workers manning the maturation warehouse carefully survey the barrels, which are stacked at different heights according to their vintage and phase of maturation.
The distillery, which sprawls out over its site at the base of fog-shrouded mountains, is known for its unique alchemy – despite having but opened for concern in 2006.
How else but by sorcery could this newbie transform Taiwan into a serious rival to single malt stalwarts like Scotland and Ireland?
There are no supernatural secrets to the imprint's success, however, according to Kaitlyn Tsai, Kavalan's brand administrator.
Instead, the process is dictated past hard work, a pure, mineral rich water source from the surrounding mountains, conscientious brand management, and – possibly most chiefly of all – the weather.
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"Our subtropical climate in Yilan hugely impacts maturation," said Tsai, explaining how Kavalan morphed from a long-held dream to the winners' podium at prestigious global whisky awards at such lightning speed.
"It enables u.s.a. to develop a rich and complex whisky in just a few years. It's not just the heat of Yilan'southward summer that causes the accelerated maturation and the smoother, softer finish, simply also the common cold Siberian winds in wintertime, which maximise the process of oxidation. Yilan happens to be the kickoff place in Taiwan where the Siberian winds hit, making it the best place on the island to make whisky."
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When a whisky from Taiwan was named the globe'due south summit single malt at the World Whiskies Awards 2015, it came as a shock to many. For years, it was a given that the best single malts were from Scotland: The birthplace and spiritual abode of the so-chosen "water of life".
Competition from upstarts in Japan, the US and elsewhere has levelled the playing field in recent times. Fifty-fifty however, the triumph of Kavalan Solist Vinho Barrique – a smooth number hailed by judges for its "sweet, pruney" flavours – was a bolt from the blue.
While the climate has no-doubt played a massive role in the breakneck emergence of Kavalan, its success is merely function of a carefully plotted-out masterplan conceived by owner Tien-Tsai Lee.
Lee, managing managing director of King Machine – the conglomerate that produces Kavalan besides as a plethora of other items including cockroach powder, coffee and beer – is another Yilan native as well every bit a long-term lover of single malts.
For years, he dreamed of producing whiskies that could hold their ain on the global stage. In 2002, his wish was granted when Taiwanese authorities allowed private companies such every bit Male monarch Auto to manufacture liquor, previously a country-controlled business organization.
Lee cut no corners in achieving his goal. Little expense was spared in the construction of the giant distillery. Stills were imported from Scotland while premium vino, port, sherry and bourbon casks were sourced from Kingdom of spain, Kentucky and Portugal.
Master distiller Ian Chang has since moved on from Kavalan. Even so, his know-how was key in those early years. Chang was sent to Scotland to written report the distilling process. He was mentored, meanwhile, past the late Dr Jim Swan, a leading industry practiced on wood management who Tsai describes every bit the "Einstein of whisky".
Such painstaking attending to detail has not only rocketed Kavalan to prominence, it has also sparked a growing appreciation for single malts in Taiwan as a whole.
Taiwan has a second distillery, Nantou, in the centre of the island. Its Omar range of unmarried malts may not yet have accomplished the worldwide fame that Kavalan's impressions have, but whisky buffs are raving most the former's earthy, fruity flavours.
"Ask most whisky drinkers virtually Taiwanese whisky and they'll probably respond 'Taiwanese whisky? You mean Kavalan?'," said Martin Eber, founding editor of TimeForWhisky.com, writing in Executive Traveller. "Only Omar has been producing unmarried malts since 2008, and – judging by what I've tasted over the years – [they're] doing a great job of it."
Taiwan's whisky-drinking tradition is nothing new. Long business organisation lunches have long been lubricated past multiple drams. In 2019, it ranked as the quaternary largest market by value for Scotch behind the US, French republic and Singapore, according to the Scotch Whisky Clan.
The emergence of Kavalan and a smattering of specialist whisky bars in Taipei and other Taiwanese cities, though, signal that drinkers on the island are moving abroad from the "bottoms up" civilization of throwing back difficult liquor.
In Taipei, chichi venues such equally L'Arriere Cour and Modernistic Public Bar are filled with immature whisky lovers sampling unmarried malts from effectually the world besides as varieties by Omar and Kavalan. Kavalan's status equally a global heavyweight in the whisky business concern meanwhile, is indicative of how far the brand has travelled in a relatively short space of time.
"Today, we've won many awards and earned a reputation, but it has been hard won," added Tsai. "Ten years ago, people still believed the thought of Kavalan was incommunicable considering there was no other distillery operating in a climate shut to ours. So at that place was a period in the early on years when all we had was a commitment to making this first Taiwanese whisky a success, together with all the difficult work and persistence to pull us through."
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Hidden abroad down a secluded alley, this veteran bar is heaven for whisky lovers with over 400 single malts to choose from, including all the Taiwanese drops. Sharply dressed barmen will offer tips curated to your taste.
www.facebook.com/Larrierecour
two: Modernistic Public Bar
Another tucked away precious stone, MOD Public Bar offers a lively atmosphere, friendly service and a cracking alternative music soundtrack. There's a hefty selection of bottles to cull from, and the expert bartenders volition mix you a peachy cocktail if whisky isn't your matter.
www.facebook.com/MoDPublicBar/?rf=201778819838531
3: Henry's Bar
While other venues are hipper, the bar at the Sherwood Taipei Hotel exudes warm, homely vibes and is perfect for settling down into a comfortable chair with a dram of Kavalan or Omar.
www.sherwood.com.tw/henrys-bar?page_id=282630
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Source: https://cnalifestyle.channelnewsasia.com/experiences/taiwan-whisky-kavalan-250976
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